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Here we are at my "Hand-Drawn"
tutorial. Time to include some disclaimers, as my articles seem
to do. First, when I say "Hand-Drawn" (which I won't be quoting
or capitalizing from this point forth), I don't mean "every pixel
placed by hand, with the mouse". Hand-drawn simply means (for me)
"no photo-base used". Now, in this particular texture (albeit not
until the next article) does in fact deal quite a bit with "true"
hand-drawn work. I'll be using my tablet to add a lot of detail.
But this half of the article is almost exclusively filters. So...don't
hate me for calling it hand-drawn. :)
Anyway, on with the texture.

Make a 512x512 image. Make a new
layer. Fill that layer with brown.

Add a light bit of noise. I do this
with almost _all_ of my hand-drawn textures. It helps (especially
when size is reduced) to give a more convincing, random, "real-world"
feel to them.

Using Eye Candy's "HSB noise" feature,
I added in some "wood grain" (not very realistic just yet).

Now I'm reducing size using my patented
"drop halfway....

...sharpen and drop the rest of the
way" technique. MAKE SURE you flatten your layers before resizing
like this (I didn't, and thus had to go through a bunch of trouble
to get rid of a seam that appeared). This leaves us with....

A 256x256 wood grain.
I added some light shadows and hilights with the dodge/burn tool.
Still not terrifically realistic looking, but that's not a problem.
See, we're going to be doing a lot of work with the dodge/burn tool
next week.
This will make a mediocre wood grain
look a lot better. For now though, I've decided I want the image
to be 128 pixels high, and 256 pixels wide. Right now it's not.
Let's fix this problem.

Stretching the image to 256x128 will
again compress the HSB noise affect, now with shadows and hilights,
which will in turn help the realism of the wood grain.

Now we have our image (at 200x zoom).
I offset it 64 pixels down and 128 to the right, and a troublesome
seam has shown up. Time to get rid of it. Here I'm copying a piece
of the wood...

... and placing it over the seam.
Now we've created two seems. Kinda seems like we're moving backwards,
eh? Trust me for a minute. This is a technique I use when the clone
tool would be annoying. :)
I'm rotating the pasted piece by
180 degrees, so it's not as obvious that its been cut from another
area of the texture.
The flipping also (by lucky coincidence)
helped the texture to blend in a bit better. Now all we have to
do is...
Use the erasing tool to gradually
let areas of the sub-texture show through, creating seamless blends.
Neat, huh?
Now merge the pasted layer with the
regular layer, and we have our base wood. Again, still not as realistic
as a photo-base texture (creating something that was would be very
time consuming), but not bad. We're going to be adding patterns
and whatnot next week, which will make this texture look even better
(trust me).
Here's the texture at its normal
256x128 size, just for reference.
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